Weekday Wander - Upstairs, downstairs in the Tame Valley
As it is summer, this month we are off in to the wild outdoors [okay, a little more rural than some outings] and visiting the upper Tame valley where there are grand views of the surrounding countryside.
As we disembark from our train at Greenfield, take a moment to inspect the station. Greenfield station is the only rail station, of the around 25 formally, now remaining within the current Oldham Borough. Opened on 1 August 1849 on the same day as was the section of line between Huddersfield and Stalybridge. This was remarkably early considering work on the single line Standedge tunnel was only started in 1846. Digging the rail tunnel did have the advantage of the adjacent canal tunnel which acted as a supply route and had already proved the ground through which the tunnel was bored. Compare this three years to that taken on the Elizabeth line in London! Look carefully at the station and you may be able to detect a former bay platform to the north of the Huddersfield platform (Manchester end). This was the terminus of occasional trains from Oldham, but as that line closed to passengers in 1955 it isn't obvious today. Another 'claim to fame' is that it is one of only a handful of stations which are not fully step-free accessible in Greater Manchester. The engineering problems entailed creating this from the Huddersfield platform can be appreciated. This is all to change as part of the TransPennine Rail Upgrade (TRU) - but not for a year or two! Full TRU details here: https://thetrupgrade.co.uk/ with Greenfield details here: https://thetrupgrade.co.uk/yourstation/greenfield/
Our visit to Greenfield will sadden the heart of true Yorkshire men, as it was formally part of Gods Own Country, being a part of the West Riding of Yorkshire. Be on the lookout for WRCC (West Riding County Council) markers on public structures, there are a few about. Many of the older 17th Century houses still display the distinct, many windowed, upper floors, which indicate they were used for hand-loom wool cloth weaving. I use the term wool cloth, because whether they were producing woollen fabric [soft and springy like tweed] or worsted [smooth and lustrous used for suits] isn't recorded. (For more on the wool/worsted differences see thedreamstress.com or www.huddersfieldtextiles.com.
Though not dating back as far in time as these cottages, our objectives today could still be described as "olde worlde". The first of these, the Wellington, is an end of terrace local, with darts, dominoes and cribbage all in evidence. Because there is a difference in the frontage with next door, and the stone better dressed, I speculate that this is a later addition rather than being part of the original terrace - discuss. I assume the pub is named after the Duke and not his footwear, but who knows. Food is available here, but only Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, hence the date of our visit.
Returning toward the station we find our next destination across the road. Before we enter, take note of the interesting building to the right of the pub (photo left). With its obvious loading doors, this must have been some form of manufactory, but for what, and with such a small footprint I don't know. As the buildings here are mostly two stories on this street front, but four high at the back, the extra loft storage is a little greedy. If you know it's original usage let us know via ku.gro.armac.mss@retsambew.
Our second establishment is the Railway Inn, and there is no mystery how it got its name. Again an elderly building, was it here before, or was it built/opened to take advantage of the business from the station opposite? There is a simple two room layout, with an accompanying beer garden offering views across the valley. Being on the TransPennine Ale Trail [or whatever the Manchester to Leeds rail pub crawl is now called] weekends can see a sudden influx of people as the latest train disgorges its revellers. Hopefully things will be a little calmer on a midweek afternoon.
Having covered lower Tame Valley, its now time for upper - yes we are going to the top of the hills! The good news is we will be taken up to the heights by none other than a Bee Network bus (had we visited on Tuesday there is an extra 'exotic' bus which traverses from Holmfirth to Ashton-under-Lyne run by South Pennine Connect. They run some other 'exotic' routes such as the Friday only Holmfirth to Glossop and the Saturday only Holmfirth to Uppermill service, full details here: https://www.southpenninect.co.uk/BusServices. We need different bus stops, depending on whether we include the optional extra, which does then involve a 15 minute walk to our subsequent pub.
For the optional extra we will travel around to the 'back' of the station and Stop A then catch a 84/184 bus up the hill to Lydgate stop. From here it is a short walk around the corner to the White Hart Inn. Dating from 1788, this stone-built pub has enjoyed a varied history but is now an upmarket free house with a restaurant. Should you still be hungry you will have to wait till 5pm for when the kitchen is back in operation. The pub hosts the local Whit Friday Brass Band Contest, which is 29 May this year, so a return visit would be required if you want to spectate. To regain our route we continue along Stockport Road(!) for 3/4 mile, a 15 minute {downhill} walk.
If excluding the optional extra, we go left out of the pub and down around the corner to Chew Valley Road Stop C, thence by bus direct to the Rising Sun on Stockport Road, Top Mossley. If the bus keeps to time we will then have a few minutes to wait till the pub opens at 3pm - but the chances of the bus being bang on time (and allowing for the disorderly alighting from the bus) we will probably walk straight in. Though described as a free house, it is in effect a Millstone tap, with two or three of their beers usually on, accompanied by offerings from other local breweries., including sometimes from their own brewery. The Rising Sun commands an extensive view over the upper valley and views as far as Dovestones Reservoir are available. If the weather be with us (we are in England!), there can be no finer way to spend time than sitting on the outside terrace and admiring the view. If you intend returning and becoming a regular, take advantage of their loyalty card scheme.
Dragging ourselves away from the view (but not too soon as the next pub doesn't open until 4pm), we walk around 1/4 mile along the road, where we will find the Church Inn. Another free house where three of the four handpumps tend to serve beers from local breweries. Because the frontage points north overlooking the main road, at first glance it looks as though views over the valley won't be on offer. Move through to the rear, where the veranda and beer garden provide a commanding view down the Tame valley. Though now known as the Church Inn, when owned Oldham Brewery it was known as the Hardmans Arms ( I think that is a family name and not a macho challenge to visitors!) We now have another decision to make, how to make our way back to the train. Buses almost cross outside at just after 5pm, one dropping down to Mossley, the other returning to Greenfield. As the buses are hourly, a third option is to finish that pint in a leisurely way then take the 15 to 20 minute (depending who you believe) walk down to Mossley station.
Although probably passed without being noticed, this Wander has managed to transit one of those less than obvious CAMRA boundaries. As stated in the introduction to Greenfield Station, this is [now at least!] in Oldham, so is part of the Rochdale, Oldham and Bury branch. The Rising Sun and Church are however in Mossley, which is part of Tameside and thus in the High Peak, Tameside and Goyt Valley branch. So if any local CAMRA members join us on this outing, we may see a changing of the guard as we cross that invisible border.
| From | Until | Pub | Address | Food |
| 11:45am | 11:58am | Piccadilly Station near platform 1 barrier for 12:00 train to York | ||
| 12:00 noon | 12:22pm | TransPennine train to Greenfield Station | ||
| 12:30pm | 1:50pm | Wellington Inn | 29 Chew Valley Road, Greenfield, OL3 7AF | Noon till 7pm |
| 2:00pm | 2:40pm | Railway Inn | 11 Shaw Hall Bank Road, Greenfield, OL3 7JZ | No |
| 2:46pm | 2:52pm | Bus number 356 from Greenfield Chew Valley Road Stop C | ||
| 3:00pm | 4:00pm | Rising Sun | 235 Stockport Road, Mossley, OL5 0RQ | No |
| 4:00pm | 5:00pm | Church Inn | 82 Stockport Road, Mossley, OL5 0RF | No |
| 5:04pm 5:17pm | 5:09pm 5:39pm | Bus 356 to Mossley Rail Station Then TransPennine train to Piccadilly |
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| 5:20pm 5:40pm | 5:45pm 6:09pm | Walk to Mossley Rail Station Then TransPennine train to Piccadilly |
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| 5:55pm 6:17pm | 6:15pm 6:40pm | Walk to Mossley Rail Station Then TransPennine train to Piccadilly |
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Timings if optional extra included
| From | Until | Pub | Address | Food |
| 12:30pm | 1:45pm | Wellington Inn | 29 Chew Valley Road, Greenfield, OL3 7AF | Noon till 7pm |
| 1:50pm | 2:25pm | Railway Inn | 11 Shaw Hall Bank Road, Greenfield, OL3 7JZ | No |
| 2:34pm | 2:38pm | Bus 84 from Greenfield Station Stop A. [If on time there is a 184 from Huddersfield some 7 minutes before this] | ||
| 2:40pm | 3:15pm | White Hart | 51 Stockport Road, Lydgate, OL4 4JJ | No |
| 3:15pm | 3:30pm | Walk along Stockport Road towards Top Mossley | ||
| 3:30pm | 4:15pm | Rising Sun | 235 Stockport Road, Mossley, OL5 0RQ | No |
| 4:15pm | 5:00pm | Church Inn | 82 Stockport Road, Mossley, OL5 0RF | No |
| 5:04pm 5:17pm | 5:09pm 5:39pm | Bus 356 to Mossley Rail Station Then TransPennine train to Piccadilly |
||
| 5:20pm 5:40pm | 5:45pm 6:09pm | Walk to Mossley Rail Station Then TransPennine train to Piccadilly |
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| 5:55pm 6:17pm | 6:15pm 6:40pm | Walk to Mossley Rail Station Then TransPennine train to Piccadilly |
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