Chasing around Chester
Meet at 11:15am on Stockport Station ready for the 11:19am Northern train via much of Cheshire, arriving in Chester at 12:37pm. For those travelling from central Manchester, there is the option of catching the Transport for Wales 10:44am train direct to Chester via Warrington. The drawback is it arrives in Chester at 11:51, some 28 minutes before the Stockport contingent, but then again there is the Chester Station Tap, which has been open since 11:00am, in which to while away the time!
There is no timetable, just a route, so we can stay as long or short as desired in any pub. Several outlets also provide food, so no need to nip in to SubWay (other food outlets are available). Because the station is somewhat on the periphery of the city, the walk to the first pub is (according to Google) 20 minutes. It does, however, encompass not only walking alongside the Chester Canal, but includes a short section of the city walls!
Pied Bull, 57 Northgate St, Chester CH1 2HQ
The Pied Bull is a former coaching inn and reputed to be the oldest continuously licensed premises in Chester. Being olde worlde, there are many oak-beams and wood panelling. Hidden in the cellar is the only micro-brewery within the walls of Chester. These beers are served from handpumps at the side of the bar but, despite having no delivery costs, are not the cheapest! There is a beer garden should the weather be clement.
There now ensues another longish walk down towards the banks of the River Dee which takes (according to Google) a further 10 minutes. Continuing the tour around the city walls would have been nice, except this is the quarter of the full round which is now missing.
Brewery Tap, 52-54 Lower Bridge St, Chester CH1 1RU
Though called the Brewery Tap it doesn't have brewing equipment on the premises, being the tap for Spitting Feathers Brewery. This structure was a Jacobean banqueting hall and, behind a perspex panel, part of the original wall can still be seen. Though a brewery tap, there is a changing list of real ales from other micros. Charles I stayed in the Grade II listed building in 1645 and the conversion to a pub won a CAMRA English Heritage Conservation and Conversion to Pub Use award in 2009.
Not on the itinerary, but worth popping your head it to in passing is the Falcon. Another medieval building (but what in Chester isn't?) with the expected beams and woodwork. The only drawback being there is only a single real ale as this is a Sam Smiths house. The medieval spirit is continued with the shunning of any of those modern scourge of lively conversation, there being no phones, tablets, computers et cetera allowed.
We are now at the furthest point, and will now be drinking our way vaguely back towards the station.
Cavern of the Curious Gnome, 61 Bridge Street Row E, Chester CH1 1NW
The Cavern of the Curious Gnome can be difficult to find, because it isn't accessible from the street, and when you find the correct entrance you still have to find the beer engines. Located on one of Chester's unique shopping galleries, called the Rows, (a sort of medieval Arndale Centre) the Cavern of the Curious Gnome comes in two very distinct halves (that's parts not measures of beer!). Downstairs is Paysan where the emphasis is on wine, coffee and cheese, so is of little interest to us beer drinkers. Upstairs you ascend into the decidedly offbeat bar, where a colourful large papier-mâché dwarf gazes down on a Belgium beer grotto. Red-and-white spotted toadstool seating immediately catches the eye and there's plenty more quirkiness to be found amongst the décor. Besides the welcome five hand pumps serving changing British cask ales, Belgian aficionados will be delighted by a diverse selection of lambics, gueuzes, Trappist ales and much more. The Cavern offers CAMRA members a very generous 20% off on cask from Monday to Thursday inclusive. Branch Pub of the Year 2024.
Spookton Brewery, Saint Thomas Pathway, off Queen St, Chester CH1 3LQ
Hidden away down a side street off Queen Street the Spookton Brewery is housed in a converted printing works. Opened March 2024 and furnished in that spartan modern factory sheik/works canteen style with a scattering of chairs, a sofa as well as bench seating. They currently serve up to eleven keg beers with many being their own. Cask is not guaranteed, though it does tend to appear at weekends. But once it's gone, it's gone! When does a small brewery become a micro brewery? I ask this because, at what size does Pied Bull's claim for the only micro brewery become contested by here! Oh, these premises are OUTSIDE the city walls so the Pied Bull's assertion is upheld.
That Beer Place, 116 Foregate St, Chester CH1 1HB
That Beer Place is a conversion of a previous shop premise into a 'modern' bar, with furnishings to match. Located on the edge of the city centre the bar consists of a simple single room layout with another room upstairs. Outside seating available should it be good weather. Two varying real ales are accompanied by lots of bottled beers and keg lines, two of which are live draft Belgian Sours. Should you partake in the juice of the apples and pears (that's cider and perry not the stairs!) there is usually at least 3 on draft, with well over 100 real ciders available from bottles.
The Cellar, 19-21 City Rd, Chester CH1 3AE
Though called The Cellar, the most striking external feature is the first floor balcony. On entering you find a welcoming and occasionally lively bar, furnished sparingly with craft manufactured pieces. Six handpumps dispense cask beer from micros far and wide with Timothy Taylor Landlord being the only regular. There are also four real ciders regularly available plus up to eight craft keg beers and a very wide selection of craft beers in bottles and cans from around the world. The actual cellar of its name is located below the main bar. Many Chester & South Clwyd awards have been won, namely Pub of the Year 2014, 2015 & 2023 as well as Cider Pub of the Year 2017 and North West Cider POTY 2022. NOTE: Should you abandon your return to Stockport, the free bacon butties are a popular treat on Sundays.
Again, though not formally on the itinerary, but located but a few strides off our route back to the station at 44 Egerton Street, ChesterCH1 3ND, the Union Vaults is well worth popping in to, if for nothing more than to admire the superb bagatelle table* by the corner door. This friendly street corner Victorian pub has three distinct areas, including a snug, and is a core of the local bagatelle and darts leagues. Two ales are available, both from Timothy Taylors.
* A bit like bar billiards but played on a pool sized table.
Chester Station Tap, West Wing, Station, Unit 1 City Rd, Chester CH1 3DR
| Pub | Address | Food |
| Pied Bull | 57 Northgate St, Chester CH1 2HQ | Food |
| Brewery Tap | 52-54 Lower Bridge St, Chester CH1 1RU | Food |
| Cavern of the Curious Gnome | 61 Bridge Street Row E, Chester CH1 1NW | Food |
| Spookton Brewery | Saint Thomas Pathway, off Queen St, Chester CH1 3LQ | |
| That Beer Place | 116 Foregate St, Chester CH1 1HB | |
| The Cellar | 19-21 City Rd, Chester CH1 3AE | |
| Chester Station Tap | West Wing, Station, Unit 1 City Rd, Chester CH1 3DR | Food |
| Return trains | xx:32 via Crewe - approximately 1 hour xx:56 via Crewe - approximately 1 hour 20 minutes xx:56 direct to Stockport - approximately 1 hour 30 minutes Alternatively direct to Manchester xx:52 via Warrington - approximately 1 hour | |
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