Weekday Wander - On the trail of the black pudding
We are heading up to Bury where, on alighting from the tram, we have an instant choice of where to eat. Do we turn left to the Art Picture House and a Wetherspoon’s meal, or turn right and indulge in traditional fayre? Bury is world famous(‽) for its black puddings, but which ones? Don’t be seduced by the Bury Black Pudding Co, they are the new kids on the block, with Chadwick’s Original Bury Black Puddings being the granddaddy, with a recipe dating back to 1865 and a market stall presence since 1929. Be aware – If you Google Chadwick’s of Bury you may come across this contact, +64 9 558 3211. Checking the +64 dialling code reveals this is a company called Chadwicks of Bury located at 58B Banks Road, Mount Wellington, Auckland, but that’s Auckland in New Zealand NOT in the North East of England and Deliveroo might take a time fulfilling your order!]
Back to Bury and more traditional foods: After lining up for our hot black puddings (plus lashings of hot English mustard) at the Chadwick’s stall in the market (beware the Bury Black Pudding stall is almost next door!), we could seek out other local delicacies. If this Wander had been undertaken at Easter we could have indulged in Bury simnel cake, while had it been bonfire night (that’s ploy night from where I come from) onwards a cup of parched peas might have been on the menu.
This Wander has slightly more location on it than normal.The reason is, a couple have been included because of their historic and/or architectural features. The intention is to have a swift half so we can wallow in the grandeur of the place and not to linger too long. That is the plan, but as Field Marshal Helmuth von Moltke the Elder said "No plan survives first contact with the enemy". . .
Now back to the Wander, by its name Art Picture House is, guess what — and old cinema, complete with a balcony (not open to the public). As befits a picture house, there were no external window so, like many other Wetherspoon's outlets, the internal architecture predominates. Thankfully the raked seats, all facing the screen, have been removed, but the central tables do feel like you are sunk in the cheap seats, ie the stalls. This is a Wetherspoon outlet so several beer are offered, all at reasonable prices. The décor, however, is anything but cheap. Cast your eyes upwards and take note of the lavish paintwork - almost as good as Stockport Town Hall's Ballroom!
We now embark on our travels to the furthest bounds of Bury, towards the station.
"But we have just come from there!" you cry.
"Not that modern tram stop, but the other electrified station, Bolton Street" is the reply (station's history).
Here we will find the Trackside at what was once a major station, with trains to Manchester (two routes), Bacup, Accrington (then points north) and Holcombe Brook. "The other electrified station" had not one, but two different systems! From the 1913 overhead 3,500V DC electrification by Dick Kerr (that's a company not a philanthropic individual!) to the 1916 side-contact third rail 1,200V DC electrification. Being housed in an ex-railway waiting room(s) Trackside feels like, would you believe, a waiting room {with a bar}. There are twelve handpumps on the bar (two dedicated to cider), but early in the week there may only be five of those in use serving beer - but still enough. The adjacent platform is host to the East Lancashire Railway where steam train run on selected dates, so if you want soot in your beer, sit outside on the platform tables as there is a scheduled departure at 1pm. The toilets continue the historic station theme as they are outside near the platform end and, if not actually original, certainly have a vintage feel (except they are not open to the elements as wasn't unknown in the Gents).
Our next port of call, the Old White Lion, isn't included because of its extensive beer range, but because of the historic interest. The whole building is Grade II listed, with the woodwork in the rear "Oak Room" (see photo) receiving a CAMRA three star historic interior rating. The historic oak panelling in this room is somewhat compromised by the large screen TVs, but if you ignore these you could be ensconced in Edwardian times (except for the prices and electronic payments!) With the adjacent games room (pool not billiards I'm afraid) the whole pub feels more like a gentlemen's club [except for the presence of <deep intake of breath> women!] After all this indulgence in history (steam trains and Edwardian interiors) we need to get back to the current time and make our way to our next location, which brings us back up to date.
Around the corner, taking note of the statue in the sqaure, and enter the Robert Peel, a former Wetherspoon establishment. The Robert Peel is named after either the local mill owner and MP or his son (also Robert!) who became not only an MP, but the Prime Minister. So which Robert is the statue in the square? Its okay to go outside and investigate. The Prime Minister Robert founded the modern police force which is why they were often referred to as "bobbies" or "peelers" [and maybe even "rozzers", being suggested as Polari slang]. Unlike the previous outlets, the décor is distinctly modern, but with many references to local Bury dignitaries such as Just William books author, Richmal Crompton. The Wetherspoon influence is reflected in both the number of cask ales on sale, and the fact it opens at 9am (but surprisingly closes at the early time of 10pm). Apart from the statue outside, Robert Peel (the PM version) is commemorated by the Peel Tower on nearby Holcombe Moor.
For those who wish to continue the historic tour of Bury, you could forgo the Robert Peel and frequent the Two Tubs next door across the square (or even have a swift half in each). The building is of unknown provenance, with parts possibly dating from the 1400s but, according to English Heritage with their Grade II listing, mainly 17th-century, with the oldest part visible a wattle & daub wall from 1696. It changed from a private house to a public house in 1806, with the 'modern' front rooms boasting 1960 fittings. All this adds up to a CAMRA One star - A pub interior of special national historic interest - grading.
History and olde worlde quaint interiors is out of the window for our next venue, the Broad Street Social. The building is old, looking to be possibly Georgian (in your author's eyes at least!), but inside it is a thoroughly modern bar, with not only real ale but a keg wall, boasting some 'classic' continental brews. Being owned by Brewsmith Beer, four of the six beers is usually supplied by them, with the others coming from local brewers. Being on Bury's drinking circuit, should you wish to drink outside, polycarbonate 'glasses' were required on my last visit.
At last we set or sights on returning home, but as we approach the tram stop we will veer left and enter our final outlet, the Marketside Tavern, which as you may have guessed is at the side of the market. Not the largest of micro-bars, but it still boasts three ales, possibly aided by the Monday/Tuesday offer of rounding prices down to the nearest £. Humm! Does that mean their normal price is £x.05p. If there are too many Wanderers, coupled with Wednesday being a market day, this could mean space is at a premium. As the tram stop is just the other side of the bus station – sorry Interchange (must stop falling back into historic vernacular) – we can spend as much, or little, time here before making our way home.
Arrive | Leave | Pub | Address | Food |
10:45am | 10:50am | Meet on the tram stop, Manchester Victoria | ||
10:53am | 11:22am | Tram to Bury Interchange | ||
11:30am | 12:30pm | Art Picture House | 36 Haymarket Street, Bury, BL9 0AY | Food |
12:30pm | 1:30pm | Trackside | Bolton Street Station, ELR, Bury, BL9 0EY | Food |
1:30pm | 2:00pm | Old White Lion | 6 Bolton Street, Bury, BL9 0LQ | |
2:00pm | 2:45pm | Robert Peel | 10 Market Place, Bury, BL9 0LD | Food |
2:45pm | 3:15pm | Two Tubs | 19 The Wylde, Bury, BL9 0LA | |
3:15pm | 4:15pm | Broad Street Social | 9 Broad Street, Bury, BL9 0DA | |
4:15pm | 5:15pm | Marketside Tavern | Unit 1A Princess Parade, Millgate Shopping Centre, Bury, BL9 0QL | |
5:31pm 5:37pm 5:43pm | 6:02pm 6:08pm 6:14pm | Enumerable trams back to Manchester |