Halifax's little know side-kick

STOP PRESS: the navigation is closed.
I have become aware that the Navigation closed suddenly so we can't visit!.
We will be going to the Commercial Inn, 31 Wharf Street, Sowerby Bridge HX6 2LA instead.

On leaving the station by the 'back door' there is an express route to the first pub (9 minutes) for the thirsty. I intend taking the slightly longer scenic route (12 minutes) which travels via the Rochdale Canal's tow path to the appropriately named Navigation Inn located next to the Calder and Hebble Canal* (bet you didn't get that right). Though you would think the Navigation Inn was built to service the canal, it is however supposed to have been used as the Moot Hall way back in the 15th century. As we approach take note of the outside walls and wonder why one corner has been 'knocked off'. Was it because it was always being struck by vehicles running out of control down the steep street, or to allow juggernauts access to the gas works which were just across the canal? Hearty meals are available for any wishing to eat – check the chalkboard for specials – alternative options are available later. We return towards Sowerby Bridge, but this time on a toe path, ie a new footpath installed to service moored canal boats.
* Yes, for such a small place there are two canals in Sowerby Bridge, nearly as many as Manchester

Our next location is the Hogs Head Brew House & Bar. This is a popular and large bar, but can be busy so grabbing a seat can be a problem at times, especially for a large group. It is originally listed as a malthouse, but has been extensively knocked about to produce the current structure. The main interest for the real ale enthusiast is the Brew House part of the name. Yes it brews its own beer and the equipment can be viewed from the bar area. Along with the four Hogshead beers (usually including a dark beer) it sells up to four 'foreigners', primarily from local breweries. A beer 'yard' (it doesn't justify the description garden) is the paved area across the street, but this is February so only the hardy are likely to use it!

On our way to the next location we will be locked up (or down) at the Tuel Lane Lock (further details here) on the Rochdale Canal. Why you may ask. Well, as the deepest lock in England (but only by a couple of inches) it would be rude to miss it out. Originally there were two locks in the vicinity (namely Lock 3 and Lock 4). The Rochdale Canal (the same one as running alongside Canal Street in Manchester) was officially abandoned in 1952, so in the 1970/80s road planners though "Lets fill it in to divert a road". This severed the canal, just at the time that such as Manpower Services Commission were funding the restoration and re-opening of the section from Hebden Bridge towards Summit/Todmorden. Much restoration and scratching of heads later a solution had to be found so as to restore the two local canal rings — (1) Leeds & Liverpool, Bridgewater and Rochdale plus (2) Huddersfield's Broad and Narrow, Ashton and Rochdale. A tunnel under the road, followed by a double height lock was proposed, but only to a restricted/narrow boat size. After lots of folks kicked up a fuss it was eventually completed to Rochdale Canal proportions and navigation restored in 1992. [Experience for yourself here (YouTube video)] If you plan to navigate it, be warned, it can only be operated by Canal Trust workers and must be booked in advance.

Our third destination is another former industrial building, listed as a brass foundry by Historic England, but a joinery by WhatPub, whichever is correct it is now the Hollins Mill. Another confusion exists about food, Visit Calderdale say they do serve it, but WhatPub is silent about the fact. Never mind, we are here for the beer. A wide range of Taylors beers are complemented by other brewers offerings. The many exposed beams and brickwork, along with the extensive floor area, can make it feel a bit stark, but very much in the ethos of modern industrial sheik. The WhatPub description says it is besides the Rochdale Canal, but here is a view from the canal bank, about as accessible as East Berlin was to the West!

Our next destination is a little further along Hollins Mill Lane, but as we progress along take note of the extensive wall and earth bank to your right. This is the bank of the canal, so think back to January 1st and the Bridgewater Canal (YouTube link so advert likely) and don't dawdle. Disasters are less likely as the Puzzle Hall predates the canal and has stood here since the 17th century (plus this is Yorkshire and the canal builders would be too mean to give water away free!). The Puzzle Hall was nearly lost as a pub, but thankfully was rescued in 2019 by a community pub company (and won a CAMRA commendation for doing so). The building is a higgledy-piggledy structure which has had many additions and alterations over the years and even boast a former brewery as indicated by the label right! The six beers on offer usually includes a stout or porter and all at keen prices (at least to those of us who drink in Manchester). The food offering is in character with the olde worlde ethos, being limited to pork pies and crisps. It is also a thriving live music venue, so you are welcome to stay till 9pm for the entertainment to start – but you make your own way home as we will be moving on.

We return to the main street, and a little backtracking, as our next destination, the former William IV, doesn't open until 3pm. Now known as Sore Bee, this emphasises how the locals pronounce their town's name, otherwise it would have been the Sow Bee. From the outside it is obviously old (Victorian?) but inside it now supports a modern décor (except for the stone flagged floor), even mimicking Wetherspoons by having its toilets upstairs! Three or so less mainstream beers are usually on offer, and can be savoured on the external veranda should the mood (and weather) take you.

Our final destination can be easily missed, being hidden down a ginnel just off the main street. The Turks Head is again an old establishment, with the street outside being an original pack-horse route (and shown as Old Cawsey on Google Maps). If you notice the prominent emblem above the door you may be a little confused. "What is that?" you may ask. It is actually a representation of a turks head, a knot used on canal boats as decoration. [Want to now how to tie one? Animated instruction here.] When we enter the establishment we will find our seats are already designated, being located in the back left corner – the location will be obvious by the signage. At the bar they endeavour to keep a dark beer as one of the four real ales on offer. This, being the last pub, with the station 5 minutes away you can take the timing as a recommendation and treat it as a waiting room with advantages. Options are (1) have a swift half and catch the early train (2) drink a pint and catch the scheduled train or (3) stay till late and catch the last train at 11:26pm.