Weekday Wander - Among the dreaming spires of Oxford (Road)
This is a slightly different schedule to normal where we will meet not in a rail station, but at the Paramount on Oxford Street. This (1) avoids standing outside the first pub like a flock of lost souls until they open and (2) allows early arriving participants the chance to eat. The intended route is from the Salisbury (virtually underneath Oxford Road Station) then heading south through the intellectual district surrounding both Manchester Metropolitan University (the Poly to oldies) and the Victoria University of Manchester (or Owens College to even older persons). We will be skirting what was, until 2004, the third university in Manchester, namely UMIST. Cunningly when Owens and UMIST merged, the former ‘pinched’ the founding date of the latter to create the iconic Est 1824 moniker as Est 1851 doesn’t sound as prestigious.
Our first outlet, the Salisbury, is a long-established drinking outlet (den?) nestled under the railway viaduct on either Wakefield Street (official address) or James Leigh Street. This area, plus that to the south of the viaduct, used to be known as Little Ireland, so maybe we could say this is the first Irish pub in Manchester. Externally the pub has changes little from this photo from 1959 (except for the missing gas lamp) but (except for the car) this could be 1859. Among the beers on offer is the rare for Manchester, Old Peculiar. [But not too many pints of that this early in the Wander!] There is a beer garden out the back of the pub, but I doubt the weather will be with us!
The next scheduled stop is across the road, but which road? If you looked up when turning the corner in to Wakefield Street, on the façade of the Grand Central you should have noticed an Oxford Street sign embedded in the wall. But the sign on the corner of Charles Street (by the traffic lights) clearly says Oxford Road — So where was the change of name, discuss.
Our next outlet, the Lass O 'Gowrie, is another well historic old establishment. At one time it was owned by Threlfall's Brewery but has passed through many hands since then, now being owned by Greene King. It even had, in the 80s, its own inhouse brewery whose beers sold as LOG 35 and 42 (see page 9 here). Back then, in order to be ‘olde worlde’, there were even naked gas flames to give the impression it wasn’t lit by electricity. These gimmicks have been removed and replaced by around six real ales (with hardly any Greene King beers) and dispensed in modern furnishings. As we leave, we must travers the 10 yards east to pee(r) at the wall overhanging the River Medlock. This was the site of the first pisoire in Manchester and has a blue plaque to commemorate this (though there is no sign to celebrate the cleaning up of the Medlock when all the effluvia no longer cascaded into the river (and thence the Bridgewater Canal!)
Wending our way through what used to be the BBC’s Manchester base, before they were lured away to reside in Manchester Docks (sorry Salford Quays). At least the BBC has re-branded to be their Salford base, whereas the docks, though entirely within Salford, were always known as Manchester Docks!
The Sandbar on Charles Street is our next port of call, the entrance to which is behind the 1950s car in the photo. [If you can identify the make please let the us know via ku.gro.armacmss@retsambew]. WhatPub describes the Sandbar as being formed from two Georgian townhouses, then goes on to mention a former loading bay which is utilised as a seating area. There is a planning application lodge with Manchester Council for change of use from "office/storage to restaurant/sandwich bar & cafe/bar". So Georgian house or factory with posh front offices — discuss. Whatever its pedigree, it now serves around six real ales, real cider and real continental beers. What it doesn’t serve is people offering actual money, so if you want a drink some form of electronic currency is required (so who is going to try and pay in Bit Coin!)
We now dive in to the heart of the Poly’s campus to find the Salutation which is overshadowed (overwhelmed?) by the multi-story blocks of learning all around. Originally a Hardy’s Crown Ale pub (as was the Hope, Stockport and Hardy's Well/Birch Villa Rusholme) and originally known as the Salutation Hotel, as can be seen in the tilework above the street (as opposed to corner) door. Nowadays it is owned by Man Met, run by their Students Union and allied to Bollington Brewery. Should you feel inclined to burst into a soprano song about wild and windy moors don’t be surprised, as the Brontë family lodge on this site before the Salutation was built. It is reported (on a blue plaque) that Currer Bell started her first novel here, so if thoughts of Rochester cross your mind it’s not the Kent town you’re pining for.
The envisaged final destination is a short walk down Higher Cambridge Street to where it merges in to Lloyd Street North. Here can be found the Ducie Arms, which stands on the orphaned stub end of Devas Street. Originally the street ran through to Oxford Road, but was buried under the Contact Theatre when built, finally being obliterated when several University buildings were built over it. Another traditional street corner pub which has slaked the thirst of students for years. In my academic days we frequented the place on Sunday evenings when we were entertained with traditional Irish fiddle music. My colleague was convinced the fiddle player was blind, even when he got into his car and drove home! So much for a university education.
Arrive | Leave | Pub | Address | Food |
· · · · · | 11:45am | Paramount | 33-35 Oxford Street, Manchester M1 4BH Pre Wander congregation point where food is available if you arrive early | Yes |
11:50am | 12:01pm | Walk to the Salisbury Ale House | ||
12:01pm | 13:00pm | Salisbury Ale House | 2 Wakefield Street, Manchester M1 5NE | Yes |
· · · · · | · · · · · | Thirsty Scholar | 50 New Wakefield Street, Manchester M1 5NP Optional extra | No |
13:00pm | 13:10pm | Walk to the Lass O' Gowrie | ||
13:10pm | 14:10pm | Lass O' Gowrie | 36 Charles Street, Manchester M1 7DB | Yes |
· · · · · | · · · · · | North Taproom | Circle Square, Nova Way, Manchester M1 7FA Optional extra | Yes |
14:10pm | 14:20pm | Walk to the Sandbar | ||
14:20pm | 15:20pm | Sandbar | 120-122 Grosvenor Street, Chorlton-on-Medlock M1 7HL | No |
15:10pm | 15:30pm | Walk to the Salutation | ||
15:30pm | 16:30pm | Salutation | 12 Higher Chatham Street, Hulme M15 6ED | Yes |
16:30pm | 16:40pm | Walk to the Ducie Arms | ||
16:40pm | 17:40pm | Ducie Arms | 52 Devas Street, Greenheys M15 6HS | No but food can be ordered in! |
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